14 September 2026
North shore · 31 km walking · 7 hours
Started at first light because the forecast promised the afternoon to ourselves. It did
not, but the squall passed while I was inside the second lighthouse keeper's cottage,
which is the kind of luck that makes a bad day feel deliberate. The tide tables were wrong
by forty minutes, so the last stretch went along the road instead of the sea wall.
7 September 2026
East ridge · 780 m ascent · 9 hours
Four hours of walking into a wall of grey. Then, without any sense of a threshold, the
ridge simply arrived and the whole range opened up to the south. Worth it for those four
hours, though I would rather have known that in advance and slept in.
30 August 2026
Old town · 6 km walking · half a day
No itinerary, just a loop through the streets that had been closed for repairs last year.
The coffee place near the clock tower has been there longer than the sign above it and still
opens at six. Ate standing up in the doorway. Went back the following morning.
23 August 2026
Island crossing · 2 hours
Neither side visible for most of it. The crossing itself is uneventful, which is the point.
Landed into clear air and immediately regretted booking a return on the late boat.